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DiariodeFuerteventura:
Tindaya beyond Chillida
- Neighbors regret that the administrations have focused on defending the project in the mountain and have forgotten to meet the demands of the people.
Chillida's name came to Tindaya in the mid-1990s. The people saw in the Basque sculptor's project the door that would open them to tourism and international recognition. Little by little, the idea was losing steam and Tindaya began to appear in the headlines linked to one of the largest corruption cases in the Canary Islands. Then, most of them stopped seeing a savior in Chillida and sided with those who defended that the monument already existed and that no hole was needed in the mountain to make it important.
A few weeks ago,
the news arrived of the declaration of the entire mountain as an Asset of Cultural Interest, a legal mechanism that protects it and buries the possibility of drilling it . The inhabitants of the area years ago had already erased the idea of Chillida from their heads.
Pamela Espinel was a teenager when the sculptor of El Peine del Viento set his eyes on Tindaya. He remembers going one day with his high school classmates to see the model of the project. She was not yet very clear about her opinion on the subject. He was young and thought of other things, but he was surprised that the town did not appear in the sketch. “No one spoke at that time of fixing the town. It gave the impression that the mountain was one thing and Tindaya, another ”, he says.
It's five in the afternoon and Pamela goes with Alicia Reyes and Verónica Suárez to the town square. They do it to chat and demand improvements for Tindaya. For some time, the neighborhood association has been inoperative. They are reluctant to throw in the towel and continue to demand improvements for the place. With the support of other neighbors, they continue to organize the La Caridad festivities in mid-
August. They are the only event that breaks for a few days with the silence and monotony that is breathed throughout the year through its streets and alleys.
They sit on the walls of the plaza in fear of ending up with their whitewashed clothes. The square asks for a reform, but it is not the only thing that needs an intervention, although that will be discussed later. The first thing is to talk about the sacred mountain and the first to do so is Alice. “At first, people liked the project. Many agreed. I was one of them ”, he acknowledges. "As long as the state of the mountain was preserved," he clarifies.
Quote:They stopped believing in the project when they saw the money disappear
At first, many of the neighbors were enthusiastic about the idea. His past linked to the primary sector, especially livestock, was still very close and they believed that the idea of the Basque would make Tindaya known beyond the borders of Fuerteventura and that it would bring wealth. The elders dreamed that the monument would translate into jobs that would guarantee the future for their children and, best of all, close to home.
Chillida's history with the mountain began in 1994. The artist chose the enclave to make a gigantic sculpture of tolerance, inspired by Cernuda's verse, “the deep is the air”, by casting the mountain. In 1995, the Government of the Canary Islands declared the project of national interest. Three years later, the Sociedad Proyecto Monumental Montaña de Tindaya was created, responsible for the project and formed by the public company Saturno y Canteras de Cabo Verde.
The politicians passed through the town, spoke to the local people about the benefits of the project, took their photo and left. Meanwhile, the neighbors kept getting up early to take the car and go to work in Corralejo or Puerto del Rosario. Years passed and the project was still not done. Government of the Canary Islands, Cabildo and City Council of La Oliva continued to defend the idea, although some of their representatives were already doing it tooth and nail. At least 18 million euros had been allocated - the accounts have never been entirely clear -
without moving a stone around Chillida's work.
Disappointment and courts
Little by little, Chillida's project ceased to be a topic of conversation in the town's bars. The disappearance of public
Money, the sentences and the headlines in the press where Tindaya was associated with corruption has arrived. “People started to get discouraged. They saw the
Money disappear and no one gave an explanation of where it was or if it was going to be done or not. We only saw how they passed the buck to each other in the media, ”Alicia recalls.
Verónica was always clear about her position against the project. The question is still being asked why they were going to "carry a mountain". Perhaps, he thinks that all that commotion was to take the stone to other places. “If that work were to be carried out, what was going to be generated around it? The economy would be there, but the people were not going to find out, "he says.
rom the beginning, the scientific community defended its importance
without the need for artistic intervention. He cried out to value all the natural space of Tindaya for its geological wealth, by having a trachytic python, testimony of an ancient eroded volcano, and for its archaeological interest, by preserving more than 200 podomorphic engravings, which makes the mountain in one of the most important cave sites in the world.
In all this time there are those who have defended turning Tindaya into an archaeological park, an initiative that would revalue the enclave, generate wealth and avoid looting or projects of doubtful environmental respect. The bet of tourism linked to archeology seems to convince the neighbors. There are even those who have dreamed of having it declared a World Heritage Site.
“They have focused on the project and not on protecting the mountain. If they had protected her, Tindaya would have been a benchmark for a long time, ”says Pamela. It explains how people continue to climb, despite their access being prohibited. “It is being seen that there is a claim, so why hasn't a path with surveillance been set up? In the end, that also creates jobs, "he says.
The Cabildo rehabilitated and opened the Casa Alta a few years ago, an old construction located at the entrance of the town, with the idea of turning the space into an interpretation center for the Chillida monument. After a few years open showing the model of the project, they decided to close it. A few months ago, they reopened it. It was one of the last acts of the progressive government before Sergio Lloret came to the chair of president of the Cabildo. "The neighbors see it open or closed, but nothing else," says Pamela.
Alicia regrets that the people of Tindaya cannot enjoy it. "They have not motivated anything for the people to go and enjoy it," he says. He comes up with thousands of ideas that go from a point where local artisans can sell their products to a place where they can set up a market and "whoever plants a chard can sell it." At his side, Verónica adds: "The house was very beautiful, restored, but no one has offered it to the people to use it."
During the conversation, cars pass by on the village road. Some may go to Jarugo Beach. The three women agree that Tindaya has become a place of passage towards Jarugo, but nothing more. They miss a signposting of the places. They even bet on signage that provides information on the location of the two cheese factories in the town and thus help generate an economy in the place.
They also demand a clear commitment to improve common spaces such as the square. “It needs to be cleaned up. All the towns have their new square. They have evolved at the infrastructure level, but Tindaya is abandoned ”, assures Pamela. The neighbors remember hearing about the creation of a picnic area in an old park, in the lower part of town. One day the swings were taken, although the furniture for the picnic area never arrived.
Sport in the enclosure
Children and not so children who want to play sports in the town have all the fencing to do so, but not sports infrastructures according to the 21st century. The sports hall is still standing, but with the door closed. The last time they remember the enclosure alive was with the visit of the clown Miliki more than twenty years ago. Some time ago, they painted a soccer field on a part of the floor of the sports hall, but to access it you have to ask for the key.
Verónica believes that, if the sports hall were fixed, a thousand activities could be carried out, from a camp in the summer months so that parents have a place to leave their children when they go to work to markets and concerts. "It is a large space with possibilities, but it is closed," he laments.
The soccer field seems to have some life in recent times as it was enabled as a training place to do CrossFit. Alicia, Pamela and Verónica also celebrate the increase in activities in the cultural center in recent times, although they miss activities for adolescents.
The residents look forward to the palm grove they have created at the entrance to the town, but they would like to have more green areas in Tindaya. Also more lighting in some parts of the town and sidewalks. Those who want to take a walk have to do it along the edge of the road with the danger that a car will appear and take them ahead. They also ask to improve the asphalt. Alicia estimates that her street, Lomo La Palma, does not exceed 800 meters. He has counted up to 17 holes in the road before reaching his home. "You have to go back and forth in the car to avoid holes in the asphalt," he explains. They are unable to give the exact number of neighbors who live in the place, but they estimate that between 800 and 1,000. In empty Spain, where the inland towns are left
without people, Tindaya seems to be one of the towns that make a difference.
The three neighbors have been talking for almost an hour around the town. It is now Alicia who asks her companions how the La Palma fountain will be, a historical fountain that quenched the thirst of the people of Tindaya in times of misery. The woman remembers her mother, María, with chants in tow coming from the fountain. He would like to value the place. The three believe that a route could be made through the podomorphs of the mountain, the hermitage, the fountain and the statue of Miguel de Unamuno, in Montaña Quemada, where the oblivion of the monument has condemned the writer to a second exile.
The conversation ends at the bar in front of the square. Verónica and Pamela now look at the square from another point and imagine everything that could be done in it and its surroundings. In addition, they dream of being able to spend a week
without water cuts in the town because Tindaya is not spared the scourge of water cuts that affect half the island. They also remember again, laughing, Miliki's visit to the sports center. The clown asked them “how are you”. Perhaps he was the last to ask Tindaya's neighbors how they were doing.